Fusion   Sweets and Tea   To Market

Afghan and Persian

Afghan Kebab House.
The variety of inexpensive kebabs doesn’t disappoint: spicy fish kebab, beef tikka kebab, ground lamb kofta kebab. The vegetable dishes include palau (rice) pumpkin with tomatoes, onions, and peppers (74-16 37th Ave. Jackson Heights, Queens; 718 565-0471; E, F, G, R train to Roosevelt Ave., 7 train to 74th St.-Broadway; 764 Ninth Ave., NY; 212 307-1612; C, E train to 50th St.; 155 W. 46th St., NY; 212 768-3875; B, D, F, Q train to 47-50th sts./Rockefeller Ctr.).

Balkh Shish Kebab House.
Kebabs are the specialty, but the aushak dumplings filled with scallions and served with yogurt sauce and manti dumplings filled with beef steal the show (23-10 31st St., Astoria, Queens; 718 721-5020; 7 train to 33rd St.).

Colbeh.
An extensive Persian menu includes delicious whitefish kebabs; season them with lemon and sumac. The olivieh salad combines chicken, potatoes, and egg with pickles and peas. For dessert, try Persian baklava (43 W. 39th St., NY; 212 354-8181; B, D, F, Q train to 42nd St.).

Kabul Cafe.
This friendly West Side Afghan restaurant serves crispy bulanee turnovers filled with spiced potatoes. The kebabs, such as cornish hen and filet mignon, are both flavorful and tender. Good, moderately priced food offsets a homely interior (265 W. 54th St., NY; 212 757-2037; C, E train to 50th St.).

Khyber Pass.
An East Village cafe offering manti dumplings and kabuli palau (lamb and basmati rice studded with carrots, almonds, and raisins), in addition to the selection of kebabs (34 St. Marks Pl., NY; 212 473-0989; 6 train to Astor Pl.).

Nader. Kebabs are served with grilled plum tomato, saffron rice, and parsleyed onions, along with a side of cool and creamy yogurt sauce. Persian stews, such as gheimen, with chunks of beef, yellow split peas, and baby eggplant, are savory and hearty (48 E. 29th St., NY; 212 683-4833; N, R, 6 train to 28th St.).

Pamir. The tasty fried turnovers at this Upper East Side Afghan restaurant are stuffed with spiced pumpkin and onions and served with yogurt dipping sauce. The kebab combo is tempting, but pay attention to fish specials (1437 Second Ave., NY; 212 734-3791; 6 train to 77th St.; 1065 First Ave.; 212 644-9258; 4, 5, 6, N, R train to 59th St./Lexington Ave.).

Persepolis. The salmon kebabs at this Persian restaurant are perfectly complemented by a dish of yogurt mixed with cucumber and mint. The hummus and tabouleh are familiar favorites, and the sherazi-tomato, cucumber, and onion salad-is refreshing (1423 Second Ave., NY; 212 535-1100; 6 train to 77th St.).

Ravagh.
A pleasant Persian restaurant in the carpet district. Mira ghazemi combines eggplant with tomatoes and garlic. The best of the kebabs: kobideh kebabs of ground lamb and beef (11 E. 30th St., NY; 212 696-0300; 6 train to 28th St.).

Burmese

Village Mingala.
An East Village spot for mohinga-rice noodles in fish broth with coriander, lemon grass, and minced fish. Keema pancakes are layered with curried beef and potatoes (21-23 E. 7th St., NY; 212 529-3656; 6 train to Astor Pl.; Mingala Burmese. (1393B Second Ave.; 212 744-8008; 6 train to 68th St.).

Cambodian

Cambodian Cuisine.
May be the only Cambodian restaurant in New York. The flavors of lemon grass, kaffir lime, and galangal (a variety of ginger) are among the cuisine’s characteristics. Offerings include soup with shrimp and pineapple, noodles with vegetables and egg, and spicy beef stew (87 S. Elliot Pl., Brooklyn; 718 858-3262; A, C train to Lafayette Ave., G to Fulton St.).

Chinese

Big Wong.
The meat counter at the front forms the hub of this bustling hole-in-the-wall on Mott Street. Cheap rice and noodle dishes topped with duck or char siu pork and comforting congee rice porridge attract lunch time crowds (67 Mott St., NY; 212 964-0540; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Canton.
A venerable Chinatown restaurant, though relatively expensive, serving flavorful Cantonese fare; squab with vegetables in a carapace of lettuce, for example, is a standout. Just as good: the deep-fried pork chops or the glazed and seared whitefish (45 Division St., NY; 212 226-4441; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal Street, F train to East Broadway).

Chao Zhou Restaurant.
A bright, inexpensive Flushing spot that serves such Chaozhou specialties as “country style soy sauce duck,” stir-fried fish with noodles, and deep-fried crab balls. Also: sliced pork with mustard greens and pan-fried sliced conch (40-52 Main St., Flushing, Queens; 718 353-7683; 7 train to Main St.).

David’s Taiwanese Gourmet.
David’s Taiwanese specialties include fermented pork, crispy fried scallops and clams with basil, and a chicken and ginseng soup. The food may be gourmet, but the prices aren’t (84-02 Broadway, Elmhurst, Queens; 718 429-4818; G, R train to Elmhurst Ave.).

Dim Sum Go Go.
Chinatown's newest edition serves up fantasic dim sum at reasonable prices. You'd be hard-pressed to find better chive and shrimp dumplings in New York or in Hong Kong. The seafood fried rice is out of this world (5 East Broadway, NY; 212 732-0797; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Dynasty Taste of China.
The cheap, delicious Sichuan dishes here are labeled hot & spicy, extra hot & spicy, or very hot & spicy. If you like it really hot, try the cold appetizer beef orange, with thin slices of beef, stomach and capsicum chilies (seeds included) topped with fresh coriander (2836 Broadway, NY; 212 665-6455; 1, 9 train to 110th St.).

Evergreen Shanghai.
Start by identifying the Eastern Chinese dishes from an almost overwhelming menu and order from there: crispy whole yellow fish, fresh bean curd with crab, Soochow duck, stir-fried eel, sauteed crab with egg (63 Mott St., NY; 212 571-3339; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Golden Monkey.
The Sichuan dishes are the attraction here: shredded beef with hot peppers, twice-cooked pork, sliced beef with leeks in a peppercorn sauce, sliced tea-smoked duck served with pancakes (133-47 Roosevelt Ave., Flushing, Queens; 718 762-2664; 7 train to Main St.).

Goody’s.
The first dish on the menu is dried scallop, shrimp, and pork xiao long bao, or soup dumplings. It’s tempting to fill up on soup dumplings alone, but don’t pass up other Shanghai delicacies. The braised pork shoulder is sweet and meaty (1 East Broadway, NY; 212 577-2922/2662; F train to East Broadway; 83-84 Broadway, Elmhurst, Queens; 718 803-9484; G, R train to Elmhurst Ave.; 94-03B 63rd Dr., Rego Park, Queens; 718 896-7159; G, R, train to 63rd Dr.).

Grand Sichuan International.
There is certainly something for everyone on the menu at Grand Sichuan, which is divided by region-Sichuan, Shanghai, “Mao’s Home Cooking” (Mao was born in Hunan), plus Chinese American. The red-cooked pork is rich and succulent, but just one of more than 200 dishes (229 Ninth Ave., NY; 212 620-5200; C, E train to 23rd St; 745 Ninth Ave, 212 582-2288; C, E train to 50th St.; 125 Canal St., NY; 212 625-9212; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

H.K. Seafood.
A Hong Kong restaurant in the heart of Flushing. Among the seafood specials: fried clams with black bean sauce, salt-baked shrimp, deep-fried oysters, pan-fried flounder, and squid with ginger and scallion (135-32 40th Rd., Flushing, Queens; 718 539-2200; 7 train to Main St./Flushing).

Joe’s Shanghai.
Ground zero for the Shanghai soup dumpling craze. Other East China dishes: drunken crabs (served raw), soya duck (a Hangzhou specialty many find tastier than Peking duck), and Shanghai noodles and fried yellow fish. Prepare to wait in line (9 Pell St., NY; 212 233-8888; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.; 136-21 37th Ave., Flushing, Queens; 718 539-3838; 7 train to Main St./Flushing).

La Cascade.
The hotel restaurant in the Sheraton La Guardia East Hotel serves banquets of Yunnan noodle soups, or “crossing the bridge” noodles. Pork, chicken, prawns, fish, vegetables, and noodles are stewed in broth in a tabletop pot (only for parties of six or more). Call ahead (135-20 39th Ave., Flushing, Queens; 718 460-6666; 7 train to Main St./Flushing).

New Green Bo.
The decor is nondescript, but the Shanghai fare isn’t. Try the braised beef with soy-ginger sauce appetizer, Shanghai dumplings-the pan-fried variety or filled with soup and steamed-or whole red snapper with a sweet and sour sauce. Also good: the tong po pork sandwiches (66 Bayard St., NY; 212 625-2359; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

New York Noodle Town.
It’s more than the long list of cheap noodle and rice dishes that keeps throngs coming back to this unassuming Chinatown great; a rave review by former New York Times food critic Ruth Reichl didn’t hurt, either. The roasted meats (duck, pork, baby pig) and seafood (baked softshell crabs) are transporting (281/2 Bowery, NY; 212 349-0923/2690; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Oriental Garden.
The Hong Kong-style aquariums at the front window provide fresh seafood for dishes using lobster, crab, razor clams, salt-baked shrimp, and steamed black bass (14 Elizabeth St., NY; 212 619-0085; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Ping’s Seafood.
The fish tanks at Ping’s in Elmhurst are stocked with live shrimp of more than one variety, eels, lobsters, crabs, sea bass, and cod. Diners enjoy sucking snails out of their shells. The fried Dungeness crab and the shrimp rolls are simply delicious (83-02 Queens Blvd., Elmhurst, Queens; 718 396-1238; G, R train to Elmhurst Ave.; 20 East Broadway, NY; 212 965-0808; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Shanghai Cuisine.
Using checkered tablecloths and vintage pinup posters from a Shanghai flea market, owner Josephine Feng has created a warm and pleasant ambience in NY’s Chinatown to enjoy one’s xiao lung bao (soup dumplings) at a very reasonable price (89 Bayard St., NY; 212 732-8988; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Shanghai Tang.
A big, bright Flushing restaurant, Shanghai Tang offers excellent Shanghai fare: fried soup dumplings, yellow fish with scallions, shrimp with pea shoots. Hot pots, too. On the weekends, sweet treats: crullers and sesame balls (135-20 40th Rd., Flushing, Queens; 718 661-0900; 7 train to Main St./Flushing; 77 W. Houston, NY; 212 614-9550; N, R train to Prince St.).

Shun Lee.
Get great Chinese fare and service at this West Side restaurant. For dim sum, try Shun Lee Cafe at the same location (43 West 65th St., NY; 212 769-3888; 1, 9 train to 66th St.).

Shun Lee Palace.
Those who prefer New York Chinese fare served on fine china have been enjoying the highly rated food, Adam Tihany decor, and attentive service at Michael Tong’s upscale flagship for decades. It’s the banquet fare that’s exceptional. Expect to pay dearly for the excellence (155 E. 55th St., NY; 212 371-8844; 4, 5, 6, N, R train to 59th St./Lexington Ave.).

Sweet-n-Tart Restaurant.
Owner of Sweet-n-Tart Café Spencer Chan opened Sweet-n-Tart Restaurant in the bilevel space once occupied by restaurant 20 Mott Street, keeping the dinner menus and adding the inexpensive cafe selection of sweet and savory tong shui soups, noodle soups, rice dishes, fruit juices and shakes (20 Mott St., NY; 212 334-8088; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Tang Pavilion.
A midtown Chinese restaurant with an upscale ambience, known for its Shanghai menu: pungent drunken chicken flavored with rice wine, crispy fried eel, chewy jellyfish, jumbo shrimp with seaweed (65 W. 55th St., NY; 212 956-6888; E, F train to Fifth Ave.).

Wu Liang Ye.
Wu Liang Ye’s spicy, peppery Sichuan dishes stimulate the palate and olfactory buds, from the sliced conch served with chili oil to the mapo tofu (literally, “pockmarked old woman’s bean curd”-spicy tofu with ground pork, garlic, ginger, and scallions) (36 W. 48th St., NY; 212 398-2308; B, D, F, Q train to 47-50 sts./Rockefeller Ctr.; 215 E. 86th St., NY; 212 534-8899; 4, 5, 6 train to 86th St.; 338 Lexington Ave., NY; 212 370-9647; 4, 5, 6, 7 train to 42nd St.).

Yangtze on Hudson.
Specializing in both Sichuan and Shanghai dishes, the chefs at Yangtze render excellent Chengdu eggplant, double-cooked pork with capsicum, and braised whole fish with chili miso paste. The Shanghai dishes are just as inspired, and service is polite. The restaurant is in Battery Park City, of all places, overlooking the Hudson (21 South End Ave., NY; 212 964-6933; 1, 9 train to Rector St.).

Yung Sun.
Fuzhou is known for its soups. This bright restaurant on East Broadway serves dumpling soups, a soup with braised lamb, and bird’s nest and butterfly shrimp soup (47 East Broadway, NY; 212 346-9888; F train to East Broadway).

Filipino

Cendrillon.
A warm, pretty Soho restaurant serving creative fare such as Balinese lamb shanks with tomatillo and mango chutney; sweet potato noodles with grilled squid stuffed with black rice and water chestnuts; and salt-roasted duck with quince sambal (45 Mercer St., NY; 212 343-9012; N, R train to Prince St.).

Elvie’s Turo Turo.
The daily buffet features rotating specials such as Mama Pinay’s breaded pork chops. Everyday items include pork and chicken adobo marinated in vinegar, garlic, pepper, bay leaves, and soy sauce (214 First Ave., NY; 212 473-7785; L train to First Ave.).

South Asian

Ayurveda Cafe.
The 4,500-year-old tradition of Ayurvedic medicine emphasizes balance, as do the preset menus of vegetarian platters at this cafe. The selection changes daily (706 Amsterdam Ave., NY; 212 932-2400; 1, 9, B, C train to 86th St.).

Cafe Spice.
A sibling of uptown Dawat, this attractive, contemporary “Indian bistro” serves both northern and southern fare, perfectly spiced: the fried grain patties known as dosai, roomali roti (a thin, soft bread), and vegetarian and seafood dishes (72 University Pl., NY; 212 253-6999; 4, 5, 6, N, R, L train to Union Sq.).

Chola.
The menu is a culinary tour of India: Hyderabadi korma (vegetables with coconut milk and curry leaves); Kerala-style shrimp with coconut and mustard; Kashmiri bakri rogani (baby goat) (232 E. 58th St., NY; 212 688-4619; 4, 5, 6, N, R train to 59th St./Lexington Ave.).

Dawat.
A pioneer of innovative Indian cuisine, 14-year-old Dawat maintains its reputation with such dishes as cornish hen with green chilies and tamarind and konju pappaas (shrimp in coconut curry) (210 E. 58th St., NY; 212 355-7555; 4, 5, 6, N, R train to 59th St./Lexington Ave.).

Delhi Palace.
Inexpensive North Indian fare served in a pleasant atmosphere. Shrimp vindaloo comes in a dark, chocolatey sauce spiked with vinegar, and the lamb jalfrazie is covered in a rich sauce of tomatoes and onions (37-33 74th St., Jackson Heights, Queens; 718 507-0666; 7 train to 74th St., E, F, G, R train to Roosevelt Ave.).

Haveli.
Around the corner from the row of largely indistinct Indian restaurants on East 6th Street (except perhaps Raga at 433 E. 6th St.), Haveli has established itself as a popular bright spot with good grilled and vegetarian dishes (100 Second Ave., NY; 212 982-0533; F train to Second Ave., 6 train to Astor Pl.).

Jackson Diner.
The crowds line up for the northern and southern Indian fare at this Jackson Heights institution, especially for the weekend buffet. The menu includes dosai, lots of tandoori and vegetarian specials, and Lahori lamb chops (37-47 74th St., Jackson Heights, Queens; 718 672-1232; 7 train to 74th St.-Broadway, E, F, G, R train to Roosevelt Ave.).

Lakruwana.
A Sri Lankan restaurant offering rice crêpe hoppers, pittu (steamed rice flour and chicken or beef curry), shrimp biriyani, lentil soup, and watalappan pudding, a sweet-and-spicy coconut-milk pudding (358 W. 44th St., NY; 212 957-4480; A, C, E train to 42nd St.).

Mavalli Palace.
Exciting Indian vegetarian fare such as delicious baingan bharta eggplant and peas, palak paneer spinach with cheese, dosai crêpes with coconut chutney, and uttapam pancakes (46 E. 29th St., NY; 212 679-5535; 6 train to 28th St.).

Pakistan Tea House.
A little gem, with just 18 seats but a big menu and a bustling takeout business. At least a dozen fresh vegetarian dishes every day and such meat and fish dishes as balti gosht beef and Goan fish curry. (All the meats are halal.) Generous portions, low prices (176 Church St., NY; 212 240-9800; A, C, 1, 2, 3, 9 train to Chambers St.).

Pongal.
Kosher vegetarian Indian. The thali platters offer great variety, with as many as 10 delectable dishes. The dosai crêpes filled with potato masala are huge. The restaurant gets crowded (110 Lexington Ave., NY; 212 696-9458; 6 train to 28th St.).

Salaam Bombay.
Chefs in the windowed kitchen that overlooks the lavish dining room create mostly North Indian dishes such as meats cooked in the tandoori oven, but also chicken vindaloo and macchi malabar (fish simmered in a coconut sauce), specialties of Goa and Kerala, respectively (319 Greenwich St., NY; 212 226-9400; 1, 2, 3, 9 train to Chambers St.).

Surya.
The trendy atmosphere attracts a loud crowd. The mostly South Indian dishes are modernized with unexpected presentation; the dosai and vegetable dishes are highlights (302 Bleecker St.; 212 807-7770; 1, 9 train to Christopher St.).

Tabaq 74.
A friendly Pakistani restaurant in the heart of Queens’ “Little India,” serving excellent chapli kebab (ground beef patties with fresh spices), grilled mutton leg, and ginger chicken (73-21 37th Rd., Jackson Heights, Queens; 718 898-2837; 7 train to 74th St.-Broadway, E, F, G, R train to Roosevelt Ave.).

Tabla.
Indian American fusion of the highest quality, offering such inventive dishes as tandoori quail; softshell crabs with daikon, coconut, and tamarind curry; and mustard fettuccine with veal. The food speaks for itself (11 Madison Ave., NY; 212 889-0667; N, R, 6 train to 23rd St.).

Taprobane.
Sri Lankan restaurants aren’t commonplace, so it’s worth sampling this restaurant’s spicy fare. The “string hoppers” are fried noodles with a tart sauce. Crêpes are airy and light, fashioned with rice flour and coconut milk (234 W. 56th St., NY; 212 333-4203; A, C, B, D, 1, 9 train to 59th St.).

Tikka.
A sibling of Tiffin in Tribeca and Thali in the West Village. Tikka’s chefs render such unusual dishes as panir-stuffed portabello mushrooms and braised leg of lamb marinated in rum. For dessert, try Parsi custard (344 Lexington Ave., NY; 212 370-4054; 4, 5, 6, 7 train to 42nd St.).

Vatan.
A Gujarati restaurant serving three-course prix fixe meals comprising dozens of regional vegetarian specialties-lentil cakes, exquisite samosas, spicy okra and chickpeas, and spinach and potatoes-and as many helpings as you want (409 Third Ave., NY; 212 689-5666; 6 train to 28th St.).

Indonesian and Malaysian

Bali Nasu Indah.
A pretty Indonesian restaurant serving such specialties as an otak otak mousse of fish mixed with spices and steamed in banana leaves. Also: pan-fried whole snapper, and chicken in chili or coconut sauce (651 Ninth Ave., NY; 212 765-6500; A, C, E train to 42nd St.).

Baba.
One of the newer Malaysian restaurants in Chinatown, serving Malaysian and Peranakan (Chinese/Malaysian) specialties such as skewers of satay, grilled telapia fish in banana leaf and kari ayam (chicken in coconut curry) (53 Bayard St., NY; 212 766-1318; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Eastanah.
An Indonesian and Malaysian menu with favorites from both cuisines: roti, a tofu satay, otak otak, and pohpiah spring rolls. The ayam goreng nenas is spicy chicken with chunks of pineapple, mint leaves, and yellow peppers (212 Lafayette St., NY; 212 625-9633; B, D, Q train to Grand St.).

Franklin Station Cafe.
Malaysian noodles and curries in a cozy Malaysian-French cafe in Tribeca that also serves tasty sandwiches, salads, and fruit tarts (222 West Broadway, NY; 212 274-8525; 1, 9 train to Franklin St.).

Nyonya.
This cheap, pleasant and popular Little Italy joint serves plenty of Malaysian seafood dishes, including fish head curry and stingray. Baba (above) has a similar menu (194 Grand St., NY; 212 334-3669; B, D, Q train to Grand St.).

Penang.
The Chinatown locations (in Queens and Manhattan) of this chain of Malaysian restaurants are standouts, serving ayam rendang (chicken cooked with lemon grass and chili paste, in a coconut curry) and bobo cha cha dessert (sweet potato with coconut milk) (41-43 Elizabeth St., NY; 212 431-8722; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal; 109 Spring St., NY; 212 274-8333; 6 train to Spring St.; 38-04 Prince St., Queens; 718 321-2078; 7 train to Main St.).

Rasa Sayang.
Now with branches in Jackson Heights and the West Village. Rasa Sayang’s rojak fruit salad is crunchy and sweet with jicama, pineapple, mango, and cucumber, flavored with blacan. The prawns asam are tangy with tamarind (47 Seventh Ave. S., NY; 212 255-2848; 1, 9 train to Christopher St.; 75-19 Broadway, Jackson Heights, Queens; 718 424-9054; 7 train to 74th St., E, F, G, R train to Roosevelt Ave.).

Sentosa Malaysian.
The eastern edge of Manhattan’s Chinatown on Allen Street is now home to a couple of Malaysian restaurants (Proton Saga is a few doors away at 11 Allen St.). The house specials, sautéed eggplant and sautéed shrimp, are spiked with blacan, Malaysia’s trademark dried shrimp paste (3 Allen St.; 212 925-8018; F train to East Broadway).

Japanese

Blue Ribbon Sushi.
Ultrafresh sushi served in a Soho setting where the chefs are known for their willingness to break from tradition to create spectacular combinations featuring daily specials (119 Sullivan St., NY; 212 343-0404; C, E train to Spring St.).

Bond Street.
With an ambience that caters to glitterati, Bond Street serves innovative Japanese cuisine-lobster tempura, for example, or steamed rainbow trout with ginger-scallion broth. Sushi chef Hiroshi Nakahara turns out an impressive-and expensive-selection of sushi (6 Bond St., NY; 212 777-2500; B, D, F, Q train to Broadway-Lafayette, 6 train to Bleecker St.).

Hasaki.
An attractive East Village establishment that serves consistently good, fresh sushi. Arrive early to avoid the inevitable line and to take advantage of twilight specials (210 E. 9th St., NY; 212 473-3327; 6 train to Astor Pl.).

Honmura An.
Fresh, delicious soba and udon are made on the premises at this serene Soho restaurant. A cook rolls out the buckwheat dough in a booth next to the kitchen. Kaiseki meals-traditional, often formal, meals made up of small seasonal dishes-may be requested in advance (170 Mercer St., NY; 212 334-5253; B, D, F, Q train to Broadway-Lafayette, N, R train to Prince St.).

Inagiku.
An expensive Japanese restaurant in the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, where the diminutive courses of sashimi, grilled black cod, oshitashi (seasoned spinach), and chawanmushi (savory custard) are complemented by seasonal offerings. Also: steak ishikaya and anago tempura (111 E. 49th St., NY; 212 355-0440; E, F train to Lexington Ave., 6 train to 51st St.).

Katsuhama.
Cutlets of pork tenderloin, chicken, and prawns are breaded and deep-fried, but never greasy. Cheese katsu and cream croquettes also are served, as well as kushiage-skewered and fried meats and vegetables (11 E. 47th St., NY; 212 758-5909; B, D, F, Q train to Rockefeller Center).

Kuruma Zushi.
An oasis of sushi one floor up and a world away from the bustle of midtown. Ask to be served omakase, or “chef’s choice,” and be delighted by chef and proprietor Toshihiro Uezu’s skills and charms. Even the wasabi is fresh (7 E. 47th St., NY; 212 317-2802; 4, 5, 6, 7 train to 42nd St.).

Lan.
A popular place for shabu-shabu and sukiyaki. Shabu-shabu meats and vegetables are served on a huge platter and cooked in a pot at the table. A great spot for groups (56 Third Ave., NY; 212 254-1959; 4, 5, 6 train to Astor Pl.).

Nadaman Hakubai.
Multicourse kaiseki meals are served in quiet, private tatami rooms in the Kitano Hotel. The beautifully presented offerings change from day to day and season to season (66 Park Ave., NY; 212 885-7111; 4, 5, 6, 7 train to 42nd St.).

Natori.
Try this plain and cheap hole-in-the-wall on St. Marks Pl. for such Japanese staples as teriyaki and katsudon and tempura (58 St. Marks Pl., NY; 212 533-7711; 6 train to Astor Pl.).

Nobu.
A place of highly coveted luxuries, including the much-copied miso-marinated black cod, yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño, and a seat in the back. You’ll want to try it all, so order lots of appetizers instead of entrees. Very expensive. Next Door Nobu is the no-reservations annex with later hours (105 Hudson St., NY; 212 219-0500; 1, 9 train to Franklin St.).

Omen.
A taste of Kyoto in Soho. Tranquil and rustic, Omen highlights the cuisine of Kyoto, serving such delicate treats as shira ae (sesame tofu puree), as well as noodles and sashimi (113 Thompson St., NY; 212 925-8923; C, E train to Spring St.).

Seryna.
Luscious Kobe steaks are cooked on a heated stone right at the table. The shabu-shabu and sushi are just as appealing, if not quite so dramatically served (11 E. 53rd St., NY; 212 980-9393; E, F train to Fifth Ave., 6 train to 51st St.).

Sobaya.
Freshly made buckwheat noodles are served in this East Village soba shop. Cold soba with tsuyu dipping sauce is a refreshing summer treat, while the chicken curry udon is especially hearty (229 E. 9th St., NY, 212 533-6966, 6 train to Astor Pl.).

Sono.
The space once occupied by Le Chantilly now houses Sono, where chef Tadashi Ono offers such innovative, expert creations as tempura eel with shrimp consommé and foie gras with Hosui pears (106 E. 57th St., NY; 212 752-4411; 4, 5, 6, N, R train to 59th St./Lexington Ave.).

Sugiyama.
Chef Nao Sugiyama prepares modern kaiseki meals, a parade of seasonal dishes artfully presented-sashimi, soups, grilled seafood. The staff explains each of the dishes as they are presented (251 W. 55th St., NY; 212 956-0670; A, C, B, D, 1, 9 train to 59th St.).

Sushi Hatsu.
A seat anywhere other than at the sushi bar is too far from the sushi chefs and their recommendations. Put yourself in their hands for fresh and beautiful sushi (1143 First Ave., NY; 212 371-0238; 4, 5, 6, N, R train to 59th St./Lexington Ave.).

Sushi of Gari.
The sushi selection changes daily, and the chefs turn excellent cuts of fish into dreamy maki rolls and sushi. (Gari is the pink, sliced, vinegared ginger that cleanses the palate.) (402 E. 78th St., NY; 212 517-5340; 6 train to 77th St.).

Sushisay.
The descendant of Tokyo’s Sushisei Honzen, a late-19th-century sushiya located in the Tsukiji fish market, Sushisay offers beautifully presented, fresh sushi in a minimalist setting. Its website (www. sushisei.com) lists which fish are in season (38 E. 51st St., NY; 212 755-1780; E, F to Fifth Ave.).

Sushi Yasuda.
A comely sushi restaurant, in an airy space with bamboo wood from floor to ceiling. The variety of sushi is impressive-several kinds of yellowtail and eel and toro tuna. Eating the fatty toro, soft and pink and buttery, is a dreamlike experience (204 E. 43rd St., NY; 212 972-1001; 4, 5, 6, 7 train to 42nd St.).

Taka.
Takako Yoneyama is sushi chef and proprietor at this tiny 10-table spot in the West Village. Her sushi creations are imaginative and her restaurant intimate (61 Grove St., NY; 212 242-3699; 1, 9 train to Christopher St.).

Tomoe Sushi.
Expect to wait (and wait and wait) for a seat at this tiny sushi spot whose reasonably priced and superfresh sushi has established a cult following. After the deluxe sushi platter, try the coffee jelly for dessert (172 Thompson St., NY; 212 777-9346; C, E train to Spring St.).

Toraya.
A charming space with charming owners, not to be confused with the Toraya tea room on 71st Street. Toraya’s sushi bar seats only a handful of customers, who receive genial service and great food (3001/2 E. 52nd St., NY; 212 838-4351; E, F, 6 train to Lexington Ave./51st St.).

Yajirobei.
The sakana drinking snacks at this busy izakaya are posted on the walls: bonito tataki, blowfish skin with kimchi, sashimi. The set menu includes yakitori and kushiage, as well as chawanmushi (a savory custard with seafood) and agedofu (thick, deep-fried tofu in broth) (8 Stuyvesant St., NY, 2nd floor; 212 598-3041; 6 train to Astor Pl.).

Korean

Cho Dang Gol.
The fresh-made tofu is served in a dozen ways: in doo boo kam ja jun (potato pancakes) and with doo boo doo ro chi gi (pan-fried kimchi and pork on a sizzling platter) (55 W. 35th St., NY; 212 695-8222; B, D, F, Q, N, R train to 34th St./Herald Sq.).

Choga.
A quaint second-floor Korean restaurant near NYU. The staples are soups and stews, and there’s also sushi. Open till the wee hours (145 Bleecker St., NY; 212 598-5946; A, C, E, B, D, F, Q train to W. 4th St.).

Do Hwa.
The stylish and loud younger sibling of East Village institution Dok Suni (see below). Do Hwa, in the West Village, attempts to maintain the traditional Korean table setting, with plenty of banchan side dishes accompanying each meal. The menu, divided by region, includes beef and kimchi (a spicy relish) dumplings, spicy squid, and a variety of meats for the grill tables (55 Carmine St., NY; 212 414-1224; 1, 9 train to Houston St.).

Dok Suni.
See Do Hwa, above (119 First Ave., NY; 212 477-9506; 6 train to Astor Pl., L train to First Ave.).

Gam Mee Ok.
A narrow restaurant with an open kitchen, where the chefs prepare sul long tang-soup with a simmered oxtail broth-and platters of grilled meats (43 W. 32nd St., NY; 212 695-4113; B, D, F, Q, N, R train to 34th St./Herald Sq.).

Han Bat.
A popular 24-hour restaurant specializing in country food of Southern Korea such as the beef soup sul long tang. Also serves delicious bibimbap and pajun (53 W. 35th St., NY; 212 629-5588; B, D, F, N, Q, R train to 34th St./Herald Sq.).

Hangawi.
Diners take off their shoes and settle in at low tables to enjoy elegant, delicious vegetarian fare of greens and mountain roots: pumpkin porridge, pancakes with leeks, stuffed tofu, seasoned mushrooms (12 E. 32nd St., NY; 212 213-0077; B, D, F, Q, N, R train to 34th St./Herald Sq.).

Kang Suh.
A Koreatown barbecue emporium that also has a sushi bar. Other dishes: hae mool pa jun seafood pancakes and hae mool jap tang, a spicy broth with seafood and vegetables (1250 Broadway, NY; 212 564-6846; B, D, F, Q, N, R train to 34th St./Herald Sq.)

Kum Gang San.
A sprawl of tables outfitted with grills for cooking kalbi (short ribs), cha dol baki (brisket) and jae yook gui (pork tenderloin). A waterfall and a piano player make Kum Gang San a favorite spot for barbecue (49 W. 32nd St., NY; 212 967-0909; B, D, F, Q, N, R train to 34th St./Herald Sq.; 138-28 Northern Blvd., Flushing, Queens; 718 461-0909; 7 train to Main St./Flushing).

Mandoo Bar.
Fresh Korean dumplings are the specialty here: fried dumplings, meat dumplings, vegetarian dumplings, even baby dumplings. Watch them being made through the window at the front of the shop. Bags of frozen mandoo dumplings are also sold (2 W. 32nd St., NY; 212 279-3075; B, D, F, Q, N, R train to 34th St./Herald Sq.).

Mill Korean Restaurant.
Located way uptown in what was for several generations a greasy-spoon luncheonette, this attractive restaurant is appointed with Korean paintings and serves such favorites as tangy ribs and pancakes with squid, pork, and shrimp (2895 Broadway, NY; 212 666-7653; 1, 9 train to 110th St.).

Royal Garden.
Rustic and pleasant, with dark wood tables and a menu of hearty soups and stews: duk man doo guk (dumpling soup with rice cake) and daegoo muritang (cod fish head and vegetable soup). Barbecue too (142-34 Roosevelt Ave., Flushing, Queens; 718 886-9292; 7 train to Main St./Flushing).

Woo Chon.
Lots of banchan and barbecue at this “cow village.” The wang kalbi are jumbo meaty short ribs. It’s all served up in a pleasant setting with helpful service (8 W. 36th St., NY; 212 695-0676; B, D, F, Q, N, R train to 34th St.; 41-19 Kissena Blvd., Flushing, Queens; 718 463-0803; 7 train to Main St./Flushing).

Woo Lae Oak.
A spare, sleek restaurant that suits its Soho setting. The Korean fare, like the space, evokes a sense of newness: try beef carpaccio wrapped in soybean pancakes or black cod in a spicy-sweet sauce. The variety of meats for grilling is impressive: beef, ostrich, oyster, shrimp, scallops (148 Mercer St., NY; 212 925-8200; B, D, F, Q train to Broadway-Lafayette, N, R train to Prince St.).

Thai

Amarin Cafe.
A no-frills Thai cafe in Greenpoint, a sort of antidote to the noise and crowds of Williamsburg’s more-popular Plan-Eat Thai. Squid pad thai, shrimp glass-noodle salad, tasty fish cakes. Plenty spicy. Look for the quail specials (617 Manhattan Ave., Brooklyn; 718 349-2788; G train to Metropolitan Ave., L train to Lorimer St.).

East Village Thai Restaurant.
A tiny Thai takeout counter, with a few seats. Tom yum spicy and tangy soup with chicken, pad kee mao (broad noodles sautéed in a spicy basil sauce with vegetables and/or meat) and plenty of curries, including a red curry with pineapple and pork. Highest marks for the charcoal-grilled prawns in chili sauce (32 E. 7th St.; 212 673-4610; 6 train to Astor Pl.).

The Elephant.
Diners at this small, colorful, and oft-crowded Asian/French bistro sip cocktails mixed with litchi juice and eat such tasty, inventive fare as Thai beef salad, which arrives as spires of layered sliced steak, mint, and cilantro atop jasmine rice. If you’re looking for a scene, albeit a cool and mellow one, you might find it here (58 E. 1st St., NY; 212 505-7739; F train to Second Ave.).

Kai Kai.
A matchbox-size Thai cafe with just a handful of tables and a small menu of Thai dishes, such as curries, that change daily. Try the rich mussaman curry with peanuts and potatoes, or gang keow wan green curry with vegetables and coconut milk (131 Ave. A, NY; 212 420-5909; 6 train to Astor Pl.).

Kin Khao.
Soho’s Kin Khao attracts a crowd, especially on weekends. The Thai food is fine: fresh som tum papaya salad, duck curry in a sweet and spicy curry, passable pad Thai. For dessert, try sticky rice with mango (171 Spring St., NY; 212 966-3939; C, E, 6 train to Spring St., N, R train to Prince St.).

Kway Tiow Thai Kitchen.
The name means “noodles.” And the noodles here are a bargain, but you might also try Kway Tiow’s larb (chicken or pork with mint, chili, and lemon juice), a minced meat salad, or mussaman curry (with beef, coconut milk, potatoes, onions, and peanuts) (83-47 Dongan Ave., Elmhurst, Queens; 718 476-6743; G, R train to Elmhurst Ave.).

Little Basil.
Delicious Thai cuisine pleasingly presented. The pet kaprow duck is fried crispy and sweetened with basil. Yum nuer beef salad, made with lime juice and tomatoes and spiked with chilies, is refreshing (39 Greenwich Ave., NY; 212 645-8965; 1, 2, 3, 9 train to 14th St.; also Holy Basil: 149 Second Ave.; 212 460-5557; 6 train to Astor Pl.).

Plan Eat Thailand.
The relocated Plan Eat Thailand is huge and raucous, and although the move may have cost it its small-restaurant charm, it has gained a sushi bar and hibachi grill. The Thai dishes are still appealing (141 N. 7th St., Brooklyn; 718 599-5758; L train to Bedford Ave.).

Pongsri Thailand Restaurant.
Casual and comfortable, the Chinatown Pongsri offers delicious kai yud saie and basil pork, especially good when the pork is minced (“kaw sup, please”) (106 Bayard St.; 212 349-3132, 212 766-0939; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Rungsit Thai Food and Noodles.
The restaurant might not be much to look at, but you can get a good pad Thai here-the noodles nice and crispy, not overcooked. The pumpkin custard is a satisfying dessert (161 E. 23rd St., NY; 212 260-0704; 6 train to 23rd St.).

Sripraphai.
Kao soy! Not easy to come by this side of Chiang Mai. Egg noodles are served in a rich curry-coconut milk broth with pieces of chicken, beef, or pork and topped with crispy-fried noodles. So many delicious Thai dishes (64-13 39th Ave., Woodside, Queens; 718 899-9599; 7 train to 61st St.).

Takrai Thai.
Situated in the same Elmhurst strip mall as Penang and Joe’s Shanghai, Takrai serves up fried fish ball appetizers and durian ice cream dessert. In between, try pad prik sod (beef with chili and onion). (82-80 Broadway, Elmhurst, Queens; 718 898-7996; G, R train to Elmhurst Ave.).

Thai Cafe.
Predecessor of Plan Eat Thailand (see above) (923 Manhattan Ave., Brooklyn; (718) 383-3562 ; G train to Greenpoint Ave.).

Thai House Cafe.
Consistently good, cheap Thai food in unassuming Tribeca quarters. The menu includes plenty of vegetarian dishes, and the flavors of galangal, lemon grass, and chilies are fresh and vibrant (151 Hudson St., NY; 212 334-1085; A, C, E, 1, 9 train to Canal St.).

Ubol’s Kitchen.
This kitchen doesn’t stint on spiciness, and its curry pastes are freshly made. The fresh flavors of green papaya salad include tangy lemon juice and pungent fish sauce (24-42 Steinway St., Astoria, Queens; 718 545-2874; N train to Astoria Blvd.).

Vong.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Thai-French cuisine includes such masterful combinations as Muscovy duck breast with tamarind-sesame sauce, squab with egg-noodle pancake, and seared black sea bass in a mushroom broth (200 E. 54th St., NY; 212 486-9592; E, F train to Lexington Ave.; 6 train to 51st St.).

Tibetan

Lhasa.
A tranquil spot with a friendly staff and pretty patio, and named after Tibet’s capital. The momo dumplings would be hard to beat anywhere on earth. Here, they are filled with chicken and steamed or fried, and make a nice accompaniment for la phing bean jelly and bhoja, tea with butter and salt and cream (96 Second Ave., NY; 212 674-5870; F train to Second Ave.).

Tibet on Houston.
The stewed spare ribs are spicy and tender, and the fried chunks of chicken are infused with the flavor of curry. A welcoming and popular Tibetan spot (136 W. Houston, NY; 212 995-5884; A, C, E, B, D, F, Q train to W. 4th St., 1, 9 train to Houston St.).

Tsampa.
“Tsampa” refers to the roasted barley flour that is a Tibetan staple. This restaurant is an attractive and pleasant addition to a street lined with Japanese eateries. Try crispy pancakes with mushrooms and scallions; nya tapa grilled whole trout; or udon noodles with vegetables, onion, and ginger. (212 E. 9th St.; 212 614-3226; 6 train to Astor Pl.).

Vietnamese

Banh Mi So 1.
This spot specializes in banh mi sandwiches layered with Vietnamese charcuterie on crispy-soft baguettes. Layers of barbecued pork and xa xiu pressed ham are topped with fresh coriander, marinated carrots, cucumber, and hot sauce (85 Bowery, NY; 212 219-8341; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Bo Ky.
An eatery that suits the frenetic pace of Chinatown, Bo Ky is all about quick bowls of pho, and lots and lots of pho, none costing more than five bucks: curry chicken, fish dumpling, wonton, mustard greens, or Cambodian rice noodle soup (80 Bayard St., NY; 212 406-2292; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Café Asean.
Enjoy Southeast Asian cuisine, with an emphasis on Vietnam, at this hip West Village local (117 West 10th St., NY; 212 633-0348; B, D, F, Q, A, C, E train to W. 4th St.).

Cyclo.
An attractive East Village Vietnamese restaurant that offers excellent cha gio (spring rolls), to be wrapped in lettuce with fresh mint and carrot and dipped in nuac cham sauce. You’ll recognize the restaurant by the cyclo parked in front (203 First Ave., NY; 212 673-3957; L train to First Ave., 6 train to Astor Pl.).

Gia Lam II.
On Eighth Avenue in Sunset Park’s Chinatown, Gia Lam II offers such favorites as grilled beef on rice vermicelli, lots of seafood-stir-fried eel, shrimp with tomatoes-and quail and pigeon specials (5606 Eighth Ave., Brooklyn; 718 567-0800; N, R train to Eighth Ave.).

La Soirée d’Asie.
The setting in a two-story East Side townhouse may outshine the food but makes the restaurant worth a visit. The “special rice” served in a clay pot with shrimp, chicken, and black mushrooms is satisfying, and the shrimp paste on sugar cane is a treat (156 E. 64th St., NY; 212 421-7899; 4, 5, 6, N, R train to 59th St./Lexington Ave.).

Le Colonial.
Ceiling fans, potted palms, and shuttered windows conjure up a movie-set Saigon. The menu features delicious, carefully turned-out Vietnamese dishes. Banh cuon rice crêpes are filled with chicken, shrimp, and mushrooms; the grilled eggplant is tangy with lime. Whole red snapper is crispy and flavorful (149 E. 57th St., NY; 212 752-0808; 4, 5, 6, N, R train to 59th St./Lexington Ave.).

Mekong.
A comfortable, good-looking Vietnamese restaurant in the popular Nolita neighborhood. Delicious summer rolls, plus grilled pork and filet mignon (44 Prince St., NY; 212 343-8169; N, R train to Prince St.).

Nem.
A Vietnamese take-out counter in a far corner of the dining concourse at Grand Central. Vietnamese sandwiches are the specialty. Fresh baguettes are smeared with butter and pâté, then filled with cucumbers, carrots, cilantro, and a choice of pork, sirloin, shrimp, chicken, or vegetables. (Grand Central Terminal dining concourse, NY; 212 223-8777; 4, 5, 6, 7, S train to Grand Central/42nd St.)

New Pasteur.
New Pasteur on Baxter Street is the one with the bright pink awning. This Chinatown Vietnamese serves delicious fare, including perhaps this block’s best barbecued pork with rice vermicelli (85 Baxter St., NY; 212 608-3656; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Nha Trang.
This popular spot attracts weekend-night crowds with pho noodle soups, bun vermicelli dishes, spring rolls, curry chicken, and suon nuong grilled pork chops (87 Baxter St., NY; 212 233-5948; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Pho Bang.
A chain of usually crowded pho shops, with more than 20 varieties of pho noodle soups (157 Mott St., NY; 212 966-3797; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.; 6 Chatham Square, NY; 212 587-0870; 4, 5, 6 train to Brooklyn Bridge/City Hall; 3 Pike St., NY; 212 233-3947; F train to East Broadway; 41-07 Kissena Blvd., Flushing, Queens; 718 939-5520; 7 train to Main St./Flushing; 82-90 Broadway, Elmhurst, Queens; 718 205-1500; G, R train to Elmhurst Ave.).

Pho Hoai.
Try the house special banh hoi thit heo nuong-grilled pork on rice stick noodles served with fresh lettuce, cucumber, and mint. Wrap them all together and enjoy (1906 Ave. U, Brooklyn; 718 616-1233; D train to Ave. U).

Pho Tu Do.
The fried chicken is spiced with lemon grass and chili, and the table-grilled beef and shrimp are “perfectly marinated,” just as the menu says. There’s a set five-course family dinner that serves six people for less than $30 (119 Bowery, NY; 212 966-2666; B, D, Q train to Grand St.).

Pho Viet Huong.
One of the tastiest specials here is the salt-and-pepper squid. If you dare to eat durian-the much-loved fruit of Southeast Asia that smells stinky (to put it mildly)-Pho Viet Huong serves durian shakes (73 Mulberry St., NY; 212 233-8988; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Thai So’n.
With a list of more than 150 dishes and a grilled pork chop for just four dollars, it’s hard to go wrong here. The “seven colors rainbow” dessert with shaved ice, sweet mung bean, coconut milk, and green gelatin is a refreshing summertime treat (89 Baxter St., NY; 212 732-2822; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).

Vietnam Restaurant.
Find Vietnam right in the crook of curved Doyers Street and down a set of stairs. The long, long menu is almost overwhelming, but there are treasures to be discovered: shrimp paste grilled on lengths of sugarcane, for example, or grilled lemon grass chicken, Hue-style pho (11 Doyers St., NY; 212 693-0725; A, C, E, N, R, J, M, Z, 6 train to Canal St.).